Up hills, around corners, and swooping through the woods I went as my
skis swooshed beneath me and poles gripped the trail. A pink sunset glimmered
wistfully between the trees, and a pair of ravens gave sonorous croaks as they pushed
their wings against chilly air. What a joy it was to kick and glide over
perfect grooming on the North End Trail’s main 12-kilometer loop.
Earlier, on my first long ski of the season, some parts of the trail
felt strangely unfamiliar. Logging operations had altered the scenery by turning
patches of dense forest into open woodlands and fields. It was a good reminder
that the North End Trails are situated on a working forest owned and managed by
Bayfield County.
Just over 4 kilometers in, not far beyond intersection #76 (I put a map at the very bottom of this post), I paused at
the top of a long slope to take a breather. More than just a necessary break,
this peaceful spot was too pretty to zoom on through. A dense grove of large
evergreen trees hugged the trail and seemed to silence the wind.
Looking out, a striking pattern of light and dark stretched as far back as
I could see. In their own dense shade, the lower branches of these trees were dying,
and their bare arms held up bright snow. Looking up, graceful branches arched
up to embrace the sky while their deep green fingers dangled like the fringe on
a shawl.
Those pendulous branchlets are the signature form of Norway spruce, Picea abies, and another reminder that
this is a working forest. In its native range of Northern, Central, and Eastern
Europe (including Norway), this hardy, fast-growing tree is a commercially
important source of wood for lumber. It was also used by Stradivarius to make instruments,
its cones were once employed as weights in grandfather and cuckoo clocks, and
it stands elegantly as the Christmas Tree in Rockefeller Center each winter. European
immigrants first planted it in Massachusetts in 1860, but its heyday in the Midwest
came later.
The “cutover,” when most of our original forests were logged to build
our rapidly growing country, left the land denuded. Hopeful immigrants tried to
homestead the land and soon found that the soils were better suited for trees
than crops. When the farmers couldn’t manage to pay their property taxes, their
lands forfeited back to the county. The federal government purchased some land,
and the county kept some, too. On his way out of office in 1933, President
Herbert Hoover created both the Nicolet and Chequamegon National Forests. When President
Franklin D. Roosevelt swept in with the New Deal in 1933, a new (badly needed)
era of conservation began.
The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) is a well-known product of the New
Deal, whose mark on the land has endured. We still appreciate the log and stone
buildings, trails, and bridges that those hardworking boys constructed on all sorts
of public lands. Planting trees also formed a huge part of their endeavors. A
crew of 200 men might plant 150,000 trees per day, five days per week. Their
work was essential to reestablishing forests in Wisconsin and most other Midwestern
and Northeastern states as well.
With the goal of stabilizing the damaged soil of abandoned farms as
quickly as possible, foresters experimented with having the CCC boys plant non-native
species in the hopes that they wouldn’t be susceptible to the insect and
disease problems that slow growth in our native species. Scotch pine, Austrian
pine, and Norway spruce were all given a try. When I asked Jason Holmes, a Bayfield
County Forester, about the success of these foreigners, he admitted that “unforeseen
pests weren’t very welcoming to these European tree immigrants. Scotch (or
Scots) pine was a classic example of this kind of failure.” But then he added, “I’m
sitting here now wondering if Norway spruce is an exception.”
Indeed, it seems to have thrived. When young, Norway spruce can grow up
to 3 feet a year. It tolerates shade, drought, and acid soils, and is not a
preferred snack for deer, insects, or mice. Squirrels will nibble on the seeds,
but those seeds are still Norway spruce’s main route to reproduction, and it
has become naturalized in many states.
The calm air I felt while skiing through the Norway spruce grove has
been noticed by others, too, and this species is often recommended when
planting windbreaks. It’s a common street tree, too. My neighbor growing up in
Iowa had a huge one in her backyard. Once I began looking, I found Norway
spruce all over the town of Cable.
Out on the trail, though, I didn’t see much Norway spruce regeneration. The
mature, almost 80-year-old trees, which currently represent 40 out of about
170,000 acres of the Bayfield County Forest (a whopping 0.024%), will be thinned
and harvested according to the same management principals as the white pines
growing nearby. As opposed to aspens,
birches, and red maples, Norway spruce doesn’t sprout back after you cut it, so
these stands will likely be easy to replant in native species that have come
back into favor.
Despite the grove’s calm air, the chill started to seep in and I kicked
off down the hill, enjoying the gentle grade of what must be an old logging
road. No matter how much I might try to focus on the present—elegant trees, proper
technique, keeping warm, and raven’s calls—I’ll still be skiing through
history.
Special
Note: Columnist Emily Stone is publishing a second
book of her Natural Connections articles as a fundraiser for youth programming
at the Cable Natural History Museum. Since kids in the community are often the
inspiration for her articles, the Museum is conducting an art contest for kids
to illustrate each chapter with a black-and-white line drawing. Find out
more at http://cablemuseum.org/connect/.
For 50 years, the Cable Natural History Museum has served to connect
you to the Northwoods. Come visit us in Cable, WI! Our new exhibit:
"Better Together--Celebrating a Natural Community" is now open!
If you want to know exactly where I was on the trail, here's the map! The colored rectangle in the background is a stand map from Jason Holmes, the Bayfield Country Forester. The darker red polygons outlined in turquoise are the Norway spruces. You can also see the spruces from the North End Classic Trail.
If you want to know exactly where I was on the trail, here's the map! The colored rectangle in the background is a stand map from Jason Holmes, the Bayfield Country Forester. The darker red polygons outlined in turquoise are the Norway spruces. You can also see the spruces from the North End Classic Trail.
If it helps to see the stand map without the colored ski trails, here you go! Thanks Jason! |
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