I've been doing a
fair amount of solo hiking while in Alaska, which means that I'm in the habit
of saying "hey bear!" loudly at regular intervals. I had thought
about getting bear bells to attach to my pack, but I'm glad I didn't because
the rangers here say that they don't work nearly as well as the human voice.
Earlier in the
summer I was in Anchorage visiting a friend (Tom Doolittle—the first Naturalist
hired by Lois Nestel at the Cable Natural History Museum). Mostly I was doing
trip planning and homework, but I wanted to get some fresh air, too. Tom had
been raving about the Upper Huffman Trailhead in Chugach State Park, on the
hill just above town, so that's where I headed.
The parking lot
was completely empty—a far cry from the nearby Flattop Trail I’d hiked earlier
that had a herd of people on it.
I headed out on
the trail. It was pretty wide and gravely, but tunneled through thick brush and
shrubs. Tall grasses lined the trail, too. On some of the trees, I saw where
moose had scraped the bark off during the winter.
I also noticed a
couple piles of what might have been bear scat, and a couple
piles of what was definitely bear scat! This time of year it’s very fibrous
because of the plants they're eating. Moose scat is much better digested because
of their four-parted ruminant stomachs.
All the while I hiked through this, every 5-10 seconds, I called
out "Hey Bear! Hey yo!"
Then, as I was
passing through an area that felt a little more open because it was just tall
grasses near the trail, I heard what sounded like a tree falling back in a
little grove of mountain hemlocks. If I was in Iowa, the sound could only have
been a rotten tree or branch finally giving way. However, I'm in Alaska. I
yelled “Hey Bear” more loudly, and tried to peer into the grove to
see what was causing the noise.
A cow moose
burst out of the grove and galloped through the grass toward the trail I was
hiking! Well, with moose you're supposed to run away. So I jogged a few steps
back the way I came. Luckily she angled away from me and disappeared
around the corner to the left at a T-intersection up ahead.
Few! That was a
little close for comfort!
Now I had to
decide what to do. I wanted to hike another couple miles. I figured that if she
turned left at the T, I could probably turn right at the T and be ok. Before I
could walk more than a few steps in that direction, the grass
rustled again.
This time a BROWN BEAR burst out of the bushes! I started to grab
for my bear spray, but he was loping away from me, following the exact path of
the moose. He looked over his shoulder at me as I said “HEY BEAR” even louder
(and maybe a little more shakily) than before, but he kept on going and
disappeared around the corner. I stopped reaching for my bear spray, and
grabbed my cell phone camera instead. I just had time to snap one quick photo.
It took me more than a month in Alaska to see a bear, and this was
a pretty exciting encounter.
It was a little too exciting for a solo hike, though. I turned
around, went back to my car, and drove to a different trailhead. I was
heartened because there were two other cars in the pull-off. I wouldn't be
alone out there.
This gravel trail was even wider, although the same thick brush
closed in on both sides. “Hey Bear!” I was hiking up a slight hill, and pretty
soon a group of six women and three dogs came hiking down the trail toward me.
A bear would have no trouble hearing them! Heartened even more, I
kept going.
Then I came to an intersection. The SAME intersection where I had
seen the bear and the moose disappear around the corner. I (and the ladies) had
unknowingly hiked up the same trail the bear and moose had just run down. “Hey
Bear!” It probably would have been fine to keep hiking, but the scenery among all
those shrubs just didn't feel worth it anymore. Not by myself. “Hey
Bear!” I was tempted to run after the group of friends and ask to tag
along.
Instead, I just turned around and “Hey Bear!” started hiking back
to my car. “Hey Bear!”
Halfway back, I heard some hollow thuds in the brush, like
something heavy on airy ground. “Hey Bear!” Then I saw a huge rack of
antlers above the first row of shrubs. “Hey Moose!” My heart started racing
again! Moose aren't predators, but they are said to be nearsighted, easily
spooked, and need a wide personal bubble. They are also huge. “Hey Moose!”
He ran off diagonally across the trail between me and my car and
disappeared surprisingly easily into the brush. “Hey Moose!”
I waited a minute, then cautiously walked to where he had crossed
the trail. There was a definite path into the brush, and also heavily
moose-browsed shrubs sticking up out of the grass. “Hey Bear!”
Once back at my car, I decided to return to the busy
Flattop Trailhead and hike among humans for a few miles. I ended up having a
fun chat with two girls from California—one is a teacher on summer break, the
other is taking a leave of absence from her job. They were super excited about
my recent wildlife sightings. Now that I was safe and with others, I was,
too.
Emily is in Alaska for
the summer! Follow the journey in this column, and see additional stories and
photos on her blog: http://cablemuseum.org/connect/.
For 50 years, the Cable
Natural History Museum has served to connect you to the Northwoods. Come visit
us in Cable, WI! Our new exhibit: “Bee Amazed!” is open.
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