We explored a magical kingdom yesterday...a kingdom
filled with mystery, danger, humor, healing, and beauty. It is the kingdom of
fungi.
Our mushroom foray guide was Britt A. Bunyard, PhD,
Publisher and Editor-in-Chief of FUNGI magazine. He gave some quick hints for
collecting mushrooms: never use plastic bags, use a knife to dig up the base of
the mushroom, and learn your trees. Plastic bags will make the mushrooms sweat
and spoil your dinner; the mushroom’s base may hold the key to its
identification; and certain species of fungi prefer certain species of trees.
The woods at the Forest Lodge Nature Trail, ten miles
east of Cable, WI, are mixed with such a hodge-podge of trees, that we simply
spread out to scour the whole area. The roots of an pine might be sprouting
mushrooms near the base of a maple, while the interspersing dead wood and moss
hold a variety of mycelia with the potential to grow many species.
Soon the contents of everyone’s baskets and bags created a
rainbow of fungi on a picnic table at the trailhead. Instead of starting with the
brilliant orange and yellow specimens, where all of our eyes focused, Britt
held up a large, drab, chunk of oak bark. Mysterious black shoestrings clung
into the furrows on the brown slab. “These are the rhizomorphs of the honey
mushroom.”
The honey mushroom uses rhizomorphs to spread and infect
live trees, live and dead roots, and stumps. The stringy, black, root-like rhizomorphs
can grow at a rate of one meter per year, and transport a fungus that can
girdle a tree and kill it. The mycelia, (the vegetative part of a fungus,
consisting of a mass of branching, thread-like hyphae) can lie hidden for years,
before bursting forth a cluster of choice-edible mushrooms.
Just don’t mistake the white-spored honey mushroom for
the dark-spored, aptly named, deadly galerina. Death from mushroom poisonings
is less common than shark attacks, but Gary Lincoff, author of the National
Audubon Society’s Field Guide to North American Mushrooms, cautions that
“Any mushroom is edible once.” The danger of eating wild mushrooms is sometimes
played down by experts. True, only a couple species will actually kill you, but
I think the pros love the feeling of defying death through their own wit and expertise.
To caution us further, Britt pulled another chunk of bark
out of his basket, this time with a group of small, globular, light brown fungi
attached. “Who recognizes these?” he challenged. “Puffballs!” several of us
exclaimed, excited to see an edible we could identify. While somewhat bland,
many folks love them fried in butter and garlic.
“No!” interjected Britt, “and this one could kill you.”
Deaths from the common earth ball, Scleroderma
citrinum, are rare, but it does cause severe gastric upset. The tough,
scaly skin on these small, rounded, stemless mushrooms makes them look a little
like old potatoes. Descriptively, it is sometimes called the “pigskin poison
puffball.” Britt whipped out his European-made mushrooming knife and sliced the
earthball in half. A thick rind of a slightly different shade of white
surrounded whitish flesh, but in the center was a hard, inky purple stain.
If you’ve eaten the true puffballs, you know that the
center must be pure white and undifferentiated.
If not, you risk eating a disgusting puffball past its prime, or a
poisonous look-alike. True puffballs, like the one we thought Britt was showing
us, release their spores through a single opening in a cloud of greenish-gray
dust. Perhaps this is where the earned their scientific name--Lycoperdon pyriforme. In Greek, “Lyco”
means wolf, “perdon” means fart, and “pyriforme” means pear-shaped. It is a pear-shaped wolf’s fart puffball. Who
said mycologists don’t have a sense of humor?
While laughter may be the best medicine, some mushrooms
are almost miracle cures in themselves. The chaga, a pathogenic mass of fungal
tissue and wood from its birch tree host, is purported to have compounds that
can be used to treat cancer, HIV, and diabetes.
The ugly black and rust-brown mass of the chaga contrasts
with the delicate earth-toned rainbows of turkey tail fungus. We found a log
filled with remains of last year’s dried and crumpled crop. Soon, with fall
rains, the common polypore “bracket” fungi, found throughout the world, will
sprout anew. This little wonder has been shown in clinical studies to improve
cancer patients’ immune systems after chemotherapy. When my Aunt Nan was
battling uterine cancer, she put little ice cubes of turkey tail tea into all
her food.
Some mushrooms heal us just with their unexpected beauty.
Shining like jewels, brilliant orange waxy caps poke their tiny heads out of
soft moss. Nearby, the scarlet caps of Russulas sit atop pure white stems.
Under the bark of a tree, a “green elfcup” fungus leaves its turquoise stain on
the wood.
In her poem, “Mushrooms,” Mary Oliver writes: “astonishing in their suddenness, their
quietude, their wetness, they appear on fall mornings…those who know walk out
to gather, choosing the benign from flocks of glitterers, sorcerers…”
Ah, that magical kingdom of fungi...
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